NCCBC Session 1: Bull City Solera and Taproom
We get the lowdown on Bull City Solera and Taproom while learning more about the owner's background (BONUS: epic burgers!)
BEER THERE DRANK THAT
Ben and Rebecca Marmaduke
11/18/20256 min read
What do you get when you combine a sommelier, a cicerone, and a chef who trained at a storied culinary institute and worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant? As it turns out, you get Seth Gross, founder and owner of Bull City Burger and Brewery. We were among the listeners as he held court at his second location, Bull City Solera and Taproom, kicking off our attendance at the 2025 NC Craft Brewers Conference.
This year’s conference was held in Durham for the first time after a long run in Winston-Salem. Bull City Solera had been on our “Must Visit” list for a long time, and we were over the moon to be among the roughly 20 attendees situated in front of Solera’s impressive barrel pyramid (more on that later). We also sipped flight glasses of Bull City’s delicious ales and stouts while getting information and insights from Seth about each one (note: this was after we had reached the magic “brunch” time, as per S.B. 155).
Everyone enjoys a good storyteller, and Seth was just that. The theme of his informal talk was “Remember Your Why.” He stressed the importance of sticking to your core values, and how doing so will serve you and the rest of the brewing industry well in navigating the inevitable cycles of rise and fall. Seth said he had already lived through two such cycles, and he urged the crowd to follow these history lessons in preparation for the third wave. His suggestions: lean into your strengths and be creative, but don’t confuse your customers by going with fads and having too many “variations on a theme.” His examples included the proliferation of myriad IPA styles and countless style extensions like white porters or beer slushes.
The Basics
Location: Bull City Solera and Taproom, 4120 University Drive, Durham 27707
Website: bullcitysoleraandtaproom.com
Social media: facebook.com/bullcitysolera, instagram.com/bullcitysolera
Vibe/Atmosphere: vibrant, inviting, eclectic, intriguing, flexible
Beers We Tried: Bryant Bridge Gateway Golden Ale, Solera Beer, Bourbon Barrel-Aged Belgian Dubbel, Bourbon Barrel-Aged Russian Imperial Stout
Parking: lot
Important NC Beer Explorer Tip: When consuming alcohol, always have a designated driver. Be safe out there, friends!
About Seth’s impressive background – he had Rebecca’s immediate attention as soon as she learned he was a graduate of the Culinary Institute of American at Hyde Park, NY, and he had worked at the legendary Charlie Trotter’s Chicago restaurant. Rebecca fancies herself as something of a “foodie,” having achieved Level 1 Certification through Court of Master Sommeliers some years back, and she moonlighted in wine and food writing before we moved to NC (and if you’re unfamiliar with Charlie Trotter, there’s a good documentary on Netflix).
When Seth started his career, he foresaw himself in lofty culinary settings with Five Diamond cooking and Michelin stars. Then, he took a detour when he accepted the position of Assistant Brewer at Goose Island Brewing – also in Chicago – where he helped create their now classic Hex Nut Brown Ale.
Serious Street Cred
Greg Hall was the Head Brewer at Goose Island in the early 90s, and they were making innovative beers that prompted their customers to ask, “What is a porter? What is a stout?” Back in those days, people were typically used to mainstream lagers and not much else, and what taprooms existed were trying hard to look like Old World taverns, with lots of dark wood and dimly lit interiors.
We asked AI to show us what a confused, overwhelmed beer consumer looks like when confronted by a proliferation of styles. Pretty accurate!
It might look a little different these days, but Goose Island still makes the ale that Seth helped to create.
Believe or not, kids, there was a time when taprooms and bars were intentionally trying to look like this.
It was the days of the Cigar + Beer + Bourbon establishments. Nobody was doing anything with used bourbon barrels – you can only make so many tables and planters out of used barrels. Booker “Book” Noe, the Master Distiller and grandson of the founder of Jim Beam Distilling gave Seth the idea to try aging beer in them. What seems like a no-brainer now was a totally new idea at the time. But there were all sorts of questions involved, not the least of which was around legality. They could have landed in some trouble with the ATF (now TTB) if they even had bourbon on the premises of the brewery.
Once they arrived, the brewers had to hide the barrels. But three months later, the barrels gave birth to Russian Imperial Stout, which was so new at the time that there wasn’t even a category. Seth’s participation in the invention of Bourbon Barrel Aged Stout had a huge impact on his approach to brewing which he carried over to his own Bull City Burger and Brewery when he opened in 2011 as Durham's oldest operating brewpub. His brewing styles gravitate toward bourbon barrel aged beers and other authentic, complex styles like Bonnie Brae Scottish Ale and (the focal point of the beer tastings) the Solera Beer.
What's a "Solera"?
Where does the term “solera” come from? According to Wikipedia, a solera is “a process for aging liquids such as wine, beer, vinegar, and brandy, by fractional blending in such a way that the finished product is a mixture of ages, with the average age gradually increasing as the process continues over many years. The purpose of this labor-intensive process is the maintenance of a reliable style and quality of the beverage over time. Solera means 'on the ground' in Spanish, and it refers to the lower level of the set of barrels or other containers used in the process.”
In Spain where the solera system originated, a solera could be as tall as 49 feet (15 meters) and housed in a cathedral-like structure.
Seth uses the solera process at Bull City Solera and Taproom by aging a Belgian-style Tripel beer in a pyramid of 33 oak barrels. He pumps about one-third of the beer from the bottom row of barrels, blends it, and then refills that row with fresh beer from the row above, ensuring the barrels are never completely emptied and creating a complex, evolving beer.
But Wait! There's More!
Did we mention Seth’s impressive foodie-chef credentials and background! (Yes, we did). There is a reason why “Burger” is part of his business’ name. Bull City's award-winning burgers are truly exceptional, with all ingredients made in-house. The 100% pasture raised, grass-fed beef is ground daily, and even the buns and mayonaise are house-made. The result is heaven on a bun. We tried the Green Monster (gruyere, shaved onion, and roasted poblano peppers) and the Bacon & Blue (blue cheese, double-smoked bacon, pickled red onion, BBQ sauces, and fresh lettuce). Both were insanely, unbelievably scrumptious. Suffice it to say that we will be back, and if you haven’t been... GO!
You're not dreaming and this is not AI. This gorgeous image is two real, different types of Bull City burger. We each ordered our preference, and then mixed/matched to get the best of both.
Seth Gross talks about brewing and the cyclical rise and fall of the business at the opening session of the 2025 North Carolina Craft Brewers Conference.
NCBE's Beer Notes - Bull City Solera and Taproom
Bryant Bridge Gateway Golden Ale*
Style: Golden Ale
ABV: 4.5%
Color: clear yellow, fine head
Aroma: biscuit
Taste: malt, peach, balanced dry/sweet
Mouthfeel: crisp, light
Aftertaste: lightly bitter/balanced
Solera Beer*
Style: Belgian Tripel
ABV: 9.8%
Color: amber, cloudy
Aroma: bourbon, caramel, vanilla
Taste: bourbon, sherry, brown sugar, vanilla, orange (“Old Fashioned”)
Mouthfeel: off-dry champagne
Aftertaste: tangy
Bourbon Barrel-Aged Belgian Dubbel*
Style: Belgian Dubbel, 8 mos. aged
ABV: 11%
Color: ruby gold
Aroma: honey, oak, chocolate
Taste: caramel, smokey, oak, alcohol
Mouthfeel: full
Aftertaste: lightly bitter
Bourbon Barrel Aged Russian Imperial Stout*
Style: Russian Imperial Stout
ABV: 9%
Color: black with lacey beige bubbles
Aroma: sherry, pruney, earthy, petey, sourdough
Taste: sherry, coffee, molasses, tangy
Mouthfeel: full
Aftertaste: long and flowing
